Tom I pretty much agree with what everyone hear has stated except for having to wax centari a lot. Oh yeah, and they made more money. The Centari of 20 years ago required a lot of waxing to keep it looing good. They mix and match products thinking they can out smart the chemists that created the product! The same confusion can occur with the remaining percentages. You, the consumer are not supposed to know every thing. My limited experience is it is more forgiving and a lot more durable.
Mix the proper components accurately. I got a little bit of orange peel in my finish. Thanks for the reply Randy70C-10. I don't know if you have ever read my editorial on the need to follow the tech sheets, I think you need to. It was more forgiving on a cooler day with a bigger tip and less air pressure, and crossing your fingers and toes. I am sure this accounts for the very few failures I have had in the 28 plus years I have been doing this work.
I have a few cars I am working on from fixing up a daily driver to restoring a 68 Road Runner. I hope to turn out a high quality product when I'm done - actually, I'm so anal about my work, that if it isn't nearly perfect, I'll likely hire it out. The manufacture puts hundreds of millions of dollars on the line with this warranty. I can't even get Centari around here anymore unless I go to one jobber about 50 miles away. And for the love of all that's good and holy. I can't tell you exactly how much. I don't know if my vision loss is from painting, but please always use a fresh air cap and a suit.
I have been using it for some 20 years and painting it in all kinds of tempetures. It's the way I learned years ago and I get nice results. Mixing and matching reducers and hardeners is a crap shoot at best. I know that when I go to buy something that I know little about I have to rely on the salesman. I use urethane hardener in all the acrylic enamels that I shoot and I also mix color 1 to 1 with urethane clear then add hardener and reducer, only on my last coat, especially on a solid color. Once you find the shade you want, click on any color chip to learn more about the color and see how it actually looks with our speed shape visualizer.
The manufacture has classes for the painters to go to. He then takes a test, if he passes, the manufacture knows that he understands the procedures and proper product choice. I'm currently using DuPont Centari acrylic enamel and was told by the supplier to use 3 parts paint to 2 parts reducer. Hope this helps and post some pics when your done. This is a gloss additive and a hardener in one. It was like watching a basketball came where one of the teams were wearing wet jeans and cowboy boots! That is one thing that bugs me to no end. I will be shooting it over 5225 Epoxy.
They usually pay the tuition, meals and sometimes even the hotel room. And the supplier recommended a 66% reduction, which I never did use. I have asked him this question also, but am soliciting other opinions. Lately I've been using alot of the new budget Crossfire clears 15410 and 15420, they spray nice, are low odor, have great doi and setup faster and harder than anything from Martin Senour that I've used. Anybody use this yet and do you like it? I laid the glove box door that I was experimenting on out in the sun for a day to see if it would get any harder, but it didn't seem to change. Any advantages like better gloss, buffing, sanding, durability? I have found that I had my best finshes in colder temps.
You can tell him that for me. Be sure the solvents used match temperatures of the booth. It was rough as a log and looked like crap. These were the shops that would buy any product, any brand, just to save a dollar. For the daily driver, I have used and am content to keep using the Crossfire line as I like that the base and clear use the same reducer and the clear only has one hardener. Sign up for our Newsletter. The Martin Senour website does not show the mixing ratio for this specific paint, does anyone know offhand? The label on the can says 8 parts paint to 2 parts reducer.
The right reducer for your temp will help, a little extra reducer don't hurt, thin like water! I would spray it out and see at 8:2. I walked in and grabed what I wanted, I didn't have to know what they were called. Try a little more temp. The manufacture has learned that it is likely the painter will use the product properly and it will perform as expected. Keep the temp up overnight or the hardner won't work right. Even before I had the training I used the products exactly as I was told to.
What was your air pressure at the gun with the trigger depressed? Different reducers have temp ranges. I remember him taking about 8-12 parts thinner to 1 part color and hardener, and then making an almost 'sprint' around the car, spraying from about 2-3 times the normal distance from the panel. I'm guessing it's 4:2:1 but don't want to guess and be wrong. The Road Runner will be a full restoration not necessarily concourse and will be driven so spending more on materials works for me. It was nothing but shit.