We have put together this package of valve cover gaskets and other related gaskets and seals for you to fully overhaul the N52 valve cover and put a stop to those pesky oil leaks. Up until roughly 95,000 miles it was a relatively minor leak that was not dripping oil onto any engine parts, however, it has recently become worse. Just lifting the engine is not going to allow me to remove the mounts but I figured the steps. Best case scenario the motor needs to be re-timed with new components. Along with the coolant, engine oil is used to keep friction and heat down in the engine. Properly installed, the valve cover gasket is reusable for at least a decade, assuming you don't disturb its adhesion to the head.
S55 and N55 bolt torque - 100Nm initial torque plus 270 degrees. If a part fails, the original purchaser is able to return that part at any time for replacement. To save you that same hassle, I will share all the information you need to know below. Will keep everyone updated with the entire process! So now I can torque the pan bolts properly. At the time it was a pain to drop the subframe and all the crap to go along with it that by the time I got to the oil pan I was changing it no matter what.
We have two other cars that have made over 1150whp. Use the tow hook in the opening behind the oil filter housing. The oil pan bolt torque is pretty small. Revisiting this thread after a long time. Wipe with the rag, a look, and if needed a very small touch.
This can be shimmed using layers of foil wrapped around the drill template as needed. Will hanging the subframe and the steering rack, not damage something in the rack or the control arms? Need bigger cardboard now and can no longer ignore it with the belt worries. I noticed some oil on the garage floor, so put the car up on jack stands, removed the plastic belly shrouds and aluminum belly pan. You will be credited for your original invoice amount, less any discounts received. Whats amazing is that i daily drive my car. Did you get it back on yet and was the leak coming from the pan? My oil pan gasket and oil filter housing gaskets were slowly leaking and my passenger-side motor mount was torn.
These are sold individually - a total of 4 are on the car. So you are saying the entire subframe and the active steering rack will lower and hang from the 4 control arms? This replacement gasket from Elring is perfect to prevent any further oil leaks. Be sure to check after a week as 2 of mine when I had the rubbery gasket actually backed out, because they couldn't be torqued properly due to the gasket squeezing dilemma. Insert a screw extractor into the hole that has been drilled into the bolt and rotate it counterclockwise with a small crescent wrench to remove the bolt. When I purchased them years ago the instructions included the recommended torque value and the recommendation to use Loctite on the screws. Simply replacing the o-ring, rather than replacing the whole sensor, is preferred. So I didn't really care what the condition of the old one was I was changing it.
Did mine at 228k km as it was starting to leak. E39 cooling lines weren't in the way. After worrying about wastegate rattle and smoking turbos for too long, I decided it was finally time to go big or go home. Finally I contacted them through Facebook and got a response. Anyone know the torque for the oilmpan bolts on an n54? Ask me how I know — whoops! It seems to be leaking from that end as well.
Along with the subframe does anything else comes off with it and how heavy is it? That's 5 in this diagram, which is part of the entire 1 assembly that's what Burning2nd referred to. You basically support the engine from the top, disconnect all electrical harnesses in the wheel wells, brake lines, unbolt the strut tops from the tower, unbolt the lower engine mounts, and then unbolt the sub frame and lower it. Oil pan has never been done to my best guess, so it is what I am planning to do still not sure if I can I next weekend. Perhaps might reduce the tendancy to overtighten, too, as you wouldn't need to. Subframe is just lowered, it is not removed.
This kit is for all N52 engines. Neither do they answer my phone calls or emails. Common symptoms are rough running and camshaft angle deviation faults. These turbos require larger inlets and outlets, so I opted for and since I already relocated things for aftermarket inlets on my stock turbos. If it is good, you are ready to reinstall per factory install process.
The only difference, is that I also like cleaning it. I'm going to try this and hope it works right now it leaks about 1 quart in about 50 miles. Since I planned on dropping the front subframe, I wanted to replace some things while I was in there and had easy access. The head and crank were sent off to a Machine shop mear me and are looking great! The oil pan has been pending for a while so I want to attempt that first. Removing the coolant and oil lines from the block was more difficult than I expected. The left-handed bit will cut in reverse rotation, and many times it will grab the broken bolt and unscrew it without a lot of effort.
This may lead to the belt snapping or slipping off the pulley, which can cause damage to other engine parts and, in the worst case, may even be pulled into the crankshaft seal front main seal. Neglecting to fix this issue right away can lead to a variety of issues such as low oil level and oil pressure that can of your vehicle. I understand your not checking these jobs are very painful. I pulled the subframe forward as I recall in order to remove oil pan from behind subframe. Some content will be hidden from you. Looks like oil is only seeping slowly out from one of the oil pan gasket bolts. Yeah the pan was leaking but when I was doing it I found pieces of belt material hanging through the front crank seal just inches away from the timing chain.